Non-Toxic Facial Moisturizers

 

First of all, do not forget to notice the quality and the needs of your skin, because in order to maintain it well it is necessary to keep an equilibrium between the acid factor (dry skin) and the basic factor (oily skin). Once a month it is also suggested to do a gumming of the body and the face to eliminate the dead cells and then to apply a good cream.

According to Rita Stiens, studies have shown that 65% of the ageing process is genetically determined and that the remaining 35% depends on the life style and the care given to the skin.

So, it is not really the small tube which makes all the difference, no matter what publicity will say to you.  Moreover, do not forget that a cream is made of WATER for 70%, 80% and even 90% even if there are 61 ingredients inside of it!

A cream and a milk are made of a mixture containing water called the aqueous phase, and of fat content called the oily phase. To mix the two phases one adds emulsifiers, preservatives and depending upon the industry (conventional or certified organic) of the PEGs, which are agents that make the product penetrate more quickly in the skin. The PEGs are on the «  Dirty List  » and they can contain 1.4-dioxane, a carcinogenic ingredient (for example, the PEG-60). Creams are also the kingdom of parabens and the ingredients resulting from the petro-chemical industry.

I repeat it once more, with some rare exceptions, a range or a brand does not hold excellent scores in terms of harmlessness (nor of effectiveness) for all of its products, they should thus be checked one by one and one should rely on a name as only guarantee.

When creams are bought, the effectiveness criterion is important. Effectiveness rests on the active ingredients which are used in the manufacture of the product; however, the healthy active ingredients are oils and butters, it is thus necessary to use these products as much as possible and thus to avoid all the additives, the preservatives and the costs related to the manufacture of the creams. The more the skin ages the better it reacts to the substances which have the same molecular structure as its own natural oils. Pure oils of plants and the essential fatty acids are more easily recognized and absorbed by the skin. Personally, I use creams manufactured only when, according to circumstances, I cannot make use of oils or butters which are fattier in their use and ask for a certain time of penetration (oil of jojoba is not fatty at all and penetrates easily in the skin). To see the difference between a cream coming from conventional industry and one coming from the certified organic industry see the chapter on   “What is the difference between organic and conventional ”.

With the products that I propose to you, you will notice differences but do not judge quality or effectiveness of the product from its appearance. What counts are the ingredients, and not the texture, the look, the odor, the luxurious packing, the brand, criteria which in the conventional cosmetics have taken over from the contents. The more active ingredients you have in the composition of the product (and the more these ingredients are listed among the 4-6 first on the INCI list) the better the effectiveness will be.

The creams resulting from the certified organic cosmetics or those that have a clean composition do not contain PEGs, these multiplying agents of penetration of the products in the internal layers of the skin which are toxic (see “ Dirty List ”). You will thus find (especially for younger brands in this industry) that it is necessary to rub several times to make the cream penetrate; that is not a defect but a quality.

A woman uses on average daily 12 products containing 168 different ingredients. Among them one counts industrial plasticizers called phthalates associated with cancer and neurotoxicity, parabens which are cheap preservatives recognized as hormonal disturbers who increase the risks of breast cancer and reproductive toxicity and persistent perfumes like musk xylene. The synthetic musks used in perfumes constitute a serious problem for the environment. Environment Canada indexed several synthetic musks as being persistent, bio-accumulatives or toxic. Several studies have established a correlation between the feminization of American boys and the use of a chemical in common perfume called dimethyl phthalate.

The phthalates are not posted on the list of ingredients, they are components of the generic “Perfume”.

Avoid the clearing-up products for the skin containing hydroquinone. The FDA informs that this chemical of bleaching of the skin can cause a disease called ochronose, which is disfiguring and irreversible and characterized by lesions and a blue-black pigmentation of the mucous membranes and the skin which, in the worst of cases, become permanent bumps of intense black colour the size of caviar all over the skin.

1.4-dioxane is the cancer-causing agent which is most known to be present in facial creams: this ingredient is not listed because it occurs in the process of combination of certain chemical ingredients present in the majority of facial creams resulting from the conventional industry.

While talking to women I realized that we often maintain a quasi-emotional attachment to our facial cream and that, as a general rule, women are proud of their choice, they will praise the merits of their product and they are not ready to call into question their fidelity at the first conversation even if you take your magnifying glass and you show them black on white, the INCI public enemies. On several occasions I have received ugly looks as if I was doing high-pressure sales by showing to women the dangers hiding in their small jars… Once more, the mention “without parabens” does not guarantee a good harmlessness to you, it is fashionable and it became an advertising slogan rather than a guarantee of a healthy product (see the chapter on “ Reading the labels ”). I do not want to upset you in your feelings, I only ask you to check the ingredients before you decide whether you’ll keep or replace your cream of day and night. Sometimes, we need time to reflect and the feeling that one may have used for years a very expensive cream, of a renowned brand, supposed to protect us from the attacks of nature and the ravages of time and which contains plenty of components dangerous for health, are connected with a feeling of treason, pretty tough for the spirit so to speak.

I did not classify the non-toxic facial creams by types of skin; several organically certified product lines make this distinction, other brands do not, it is up to you to explore and find what is most appropriate for you. I will make comments for the creams, which I tried, to help you but do not forget that these remarks, no matter the number of people who back them, may not apply to you because your skin can react differently to the product, according to the characteristics which are proper to it.

 

Soins Corporels Aster (Body Treatments Aster) Quebec company offers several genuinely natural products, 95% of the ingredients are certified organic by ECOCERT (ingredients marked with an asterisk *). The exemplary composition of these products proves, once again, that it is possible to combine aesthetic and health care. Two lines of cosmetics: Soins & Soi and Aster.

Soins & Soi Moisturizing Cream, 30 ml, $ 22.59  available on ligne.

INCI: Rosa damascena flower water*0, simmondsia chinensis oil*1, argania spinosa oil*1,  thymus vulgaris extract*1, origanum vulgare extract *0, butyrospermum parkii butter*0, mel 0, cetearyl wheat straw glycosides 0 (and) cetearyl alcohol*1, xanthan gum 0, camellia sinensis leaf extract 0 and maltodextrin 0, ascorbic acid 0, tocopherol 1, jasminum grandiflorum extract 0, rosa extract 0, cymbopogon martini oil*1, santalum austrocaledonicum oil1, pelargonium asperum rosat oil* 0, rosmarinus officinalis verbenone oil *0, potassium sorbate 3.

1this sandalwood is not listed on Skin Deep, but is found in the composition of several certified organic products

 

Aster Regeneratrive Cream  (mature skin), 50 ml, $ 64, on sale at the beauty professionals (sales locator).

INCI: Rosa damascena flower water*0, argania spinosa oil*0, simmondsia chinensis oil*0,  thymus vulgaris extract*1, origanum extract*0, cetearyl wheat straw glycosides 0 (and) cetearyl alcohol*1, mel 1, pelagronium asperum (geranium) rosat oil*0, cymbopogon martinii oil*1, santalum austrocaledonicum oil1, monarda fistulosa oil*0, rosa damascena oil*0, helichrysum italicum oil*0, rosmarinus verbenone oil*0, xanthan gum 0, camellia sinensis leaf extract 0 and maltodextrin 0, tocopherol 1, ascorbic acid 0, sodium hyaluronate 0, potassium sorbate 3.

 

Aster Regenerative Lotion, 125 ml, $ 42.50, a lighter version that is suitable for sensitive skin, on sale at the beauty professionals (sales locator).

INCI: Rosa damascena flower water*0, helichrysum italicum water*0, cistus ladaniferus water*0, thymus vulgaris extract* 1, origanum extract*0, centella asiatica extract 0, solubol 2 (glycerin 0, cocos nucifera 0, lecithin 3, maltodextrin 0, acacia gum 0, tocopherol 1, ascorbic acid 0, rosmarinus officinalis extract 0), pelargonium asperum rosat bourbon oil*0, cymbopogon martinii oil*1, cananga odorata oil *3, santalum austrocaledonicum oil1, pogostemon cablin oil*0, rosmarinus officinalis verbenone oil*0.

1this sandalwood is not listed on Skin Deep, but is found in the composition of several certified organic products 

2The Solubol is a dispersing essential oils with hydrosols, between parenthesis are the constituents of Solubol.


 

Manufactured by Kamelya Aromacosmétique  The Radiant Sea Buckthome Face Day Cream is a high quality product. As you can see from the ingredients, it is composed of rich and nourishing oils, such as sea buckthorn oil which gives it its specificity. A real treat !

 

L’or Rouge Radiant Sea Buckthome Face Day Cream,  50 ml, $ 42.99.

INCI: Aqua  0 , Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil  0 , Helianthus Annuus Oil  0 , Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil  0 , Aloe Barbadensis  1 , Cetearyl Olivate  0  and Sorbitan Olivate  0 ,  Pyrus Malus Water 0 , Glycerin  0 , Gluconolactone  0 , Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract  0 , Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract  0 , Euterpe Oleracea Pulp Powder  0 , Propanediol  1  (and) Lycium Barbarum Extract  0 , Sodium Benzoate  1 , Potassium Sorbate  3 , Maltodextrin  0 .

 


 

Acid Hyaluronic Pseudo-Collagen Nignt Cream Sea Buckthone, 30 ml, $ 47,99 by Kamelia Arocosmétiques.

INCI : Aqua 0, Helianthus Annuus Oil 0, Cetearyl Olivate 0  and Sorbitan Olivate 0, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil 0, Vitis Vinifera Oil 0, Yeast Extract 0, Glycerin 0, Gluconolactone 0, Sodium Hyaluronate 0, Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract 0, Aloe Barbadensis 1, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract 0, Euterpe Oleracea Pulp Powder 0, Propanediol 1 (and) Lycium Barbarum Extract 0, Sodium Benzoate 1, Potassium Sorbate 3, Maltodextrin 0.

 

 

 


 

CORPA FLORA is a Canadian company that provides a very particular attention to the raw materials it uses, the majority of the ingredients are certified organic by Ecocert or USDA / NOP. No water in the composition of the products! A good way to explore them is the Discovery Set 21 days “The 5 Essentials”, where you will find four products for the face and a 100% bamboo facial cloth   certified organic by USDA. This box allows you to try these rich and authentic products for 21 days, it can be used as travel kit or can be the perfect gift for your best friend. $ 51 

(INCI products coposition below). 


 

Corpa Flora Éclat Cirouille Night Cream Replacement, 30 ml, 27 $. Suitable for all skin types, sensitive, mature, dry and mixed. Formulated with a nourishing and anti-aging mixture of pumpkin seed oil (rich in Zinc), macadamia and rosehip seed oil containing naturally tretinoin also known as retinoïc  acid a derivative of vitamin A (retinol) which stimulates collagen synthesis without the secondary.

INCI: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil* 0, Camellia Sinensis (Camellia) Seed Oil* 0, Cucurbita pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Oil* 0, Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil* 0, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 1, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil 0 (and) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) flower Extract 0 (and) Plantago Major (Plantain) leaf Extract** 0, Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Fruit Extract* 0, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil* 0, Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile) Oil 0, Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium)Oil* 0, Boswellia Carteri (Frankincense) Oil 1, Pogostemon Cablin (Patchouli) Oil 0, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract 0 (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil* 0.

*Organic

**wild harvested


Corpa Flora Grenadine Day Cream Repalcement, 30 ml, 37 $. Suitable for all skin types, sensitive, mature, dry and mixed, quickly absorbed by the skin, excellent hydrating base for makeup.

INCI: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil * 0, Camellia Sinensis (Camellia) Seed Oil* 0, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 1, Rubus Idaeus (Red Raspberry) Seed Oil* 0, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Oil* 0, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil 0 (and) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower extract 0, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Seed Extract * 0, Hippophae Rhamnoides (Seabuckthorn) Fruit Extract* 0, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract 0 (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil* 0, Pogostemon Cablin (Patchouli) Oil 0, Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Oil* 0, Citrus sinensis dulcis (Orange) Oil* 0, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Petitgrain) Oil* 2, Citrus Junos (Yuzu) Oil 0, Backhousia Citriodora (Lemon Myrtle) Oil 0.

*Organic


 

Made in Guelph, Ontario care range Penny Lane Organics offers several products that stand out for their simple formulations, sweet, pure and rich choice of ingredients.

Penny Lane Organics Helichrysum Anti-Aging Serum, 30ml, 78.95 $. Very nice product with 10% Helichrysum essential oil, not oily, perfect to use under make up, a little bit goes a long way!

INCI : Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia chinensis)* 0, Water (Aqua), Rosehip oil (Rosa rubiginosa) 0, Mango butter (Mangifera indica) 0, Vegetable Glycerin 0, PseudoCollagen (Yeast Extract) 0, Phytokeratin (Hydrolized Vegetable Protein) 0, Natragem EW (emulsifying wax)* 4, Geogard Ultra* 1, Helichrysum Italicum essential oil 0, Vitamin E (Tocopherol) 1

* Ingredients certified organic by Ecocert & QAI

 


Penny Lane Organics Hydrating Day Cream, 50 ml, 29.99 $. Non-Greasy, fast absorbing formula allows you to use makeup within minutes from application.

INCI : Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia chinensis)* 0, Coconut Oil (Cocos nucifera) 0, Evening Primrose Oil (Oenothera Biennis) 0, Distilled Water (Aqua), Pseudocollagen (Yeast Extract) 0, Silk Peptide (Hydrolyzed Silk) 0, Natragem EW *4, Vitamin E (Tocopherol) 1, Geoguard Ultra* 1

*Ingredients certified organic by Ecocert & QAI

 


 


KARIDERM Lightening Cream 120 ml, 36.95 $

The bearberry, alma and Damien extracts will slow down pigmentation to reduce age spots and prevent new spots to appear.

INCI: Aqua, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) 0, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract 0, Turnera Aphrodisiaca Leaf Extract 0, Polygonum Multiflorum (Fo-Ti) Root Extract 0, Cetearyl Glucoside 0, Cetearyl Alcohol 1, Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Flower Extract 0, Cera Alba 0, Glycerin 0, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 0, Triheptanoin 0, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 0, Acanthopanax Senticosus Root Extract 0, Dehydroacetic Acid 1, Cetyl Alcohol 1, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract 0, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract 0,  Aspalathus Linearis (Rooibos) Leaf Extract 0, Maltodextrin 0, Sodium Phytate 0, Xanthan Gum 0, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate 0, Litsea Cubeba Oil 1, Backhousia Citriodora (Lemon Myrtle) Oil 0


 

Kamelya Aromacosmétique  range is manufactured in Quebec from vegetable  green tea oil. Formulas are beautiful, simple and rich in nourishing ingredients.

 

 Kamelya Sooting Face Cream  50ml, 32.99 $.

INCI : Aqua  0 , Camellia Sinensis Oil  2 , Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil  0 , Aloe Barbadensis  1 , Cetearyl Olivate  0  and Sorbitan Olivate  0 ,  Tocopherol  2 , Oryza Sativa Oil  2 , Glycerin  0 , Honey Powder 0, Camellia Sinensis Extract  2 , Chamomilla Recutita (matricaria) Flower Extract  0 , Cucumis sativus fruit extract  0 , Gluconolactone  0 , Sodium Benzoate  1 , Potassium Sorbate  3 , Lavandula Angustifolia Oil  1 , Aniba Rosaeodora oil  1 , Citrus Sinensis Peel Oil  0 , Maltodextrin  0 .

 


 

 Revitalizing Face Cream , 50 ml, 32.99$.

INCI : Aqua  0 , Camellia Sinensis Oil  2 , Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil  0 , Aloe Barbadensis  1 , Cetearyl Olivate  0  and Sorbitan Olivate  0 , Tocopherol  2 , Oryza Sativa Oil  2 , Glycerin  0 , Gluconolactone  0 , Honey Powder  0 , Carica Fruit Extract  0 , Mangifera Indica fruit extract  0 , Annona reticulata (custard apple) fruit extract  0 , Sodium Benzoate  1 , Potassium Sorbate  3 , Pelargonium graveolens  0 , Rosmarinus officinalis Oil  0 , Maltodextrin  0 .


 

Eco-friendly Bioeternel cosmetics Quebec company offers products for various types of skin and specific problems such as rosacea, acne and pigmentation spots.

Bioeternel Soleil Doré  Anti-aging Cream / Face, 50 ml, 50 $. Enriched with Zinc Oxide (15%) and Vitamine C, this moisturizing offers additional sun protection.

 

Ingredients: Aloe barbadensis (aloe vera) 1, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil 0, methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) 0/(soufre), sodium ascorbyl phosphate 0 (vitamin c), vegetable glycerin 0, cetyl alcohol 1, stearic acid 1, glyceryl stearate 0, carthamus tinctorius (safflower oil) 0, butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) 0, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba oil) 0, panthenol (vitamine b5) 1, gluconolactone 0 (and) sodium benzoate 1, xanthan gum 0, allantoin 0, tocopherol 1, camellia sinensis (green tea) 0, citric acid 2, Aniba rosaeodora oil 1, Rosa damascena oil 0, Daucus carotta sativa (seed) oil 0.

 

 


 

Bioeternel Serum  RO-ZA-C herbal designed product to calm the inflammation of the skin; this product is highly recommended for the acne and the rosacea. 30 ml, $ 52.

INCI : Aloe barbadensis (aloe vera) 1, vegetable glycerin 0, panthenol (vitamine b5) 1, xanthan gum 0, (2s)-2 amino-5-guanidine tannic acid 1, chondrus crispus (irish moss) 0, hyaluronic acid 0, ocean mineral concentrate, spirulina maxima (spirulina) 0, chondrus crispus (irish moss) 0, organic curcuma longa (tumeric) 0, achillea millefolium (yarrow) 0, gluconolactone 0 and sodium benzoate 1, helicrysum italicum oil 0.

 


 

New Product : The Face Cream of Senteurs du Sud was formulated with 98% of natural ingredients. Specially made for sensible skins, the face care is enriched in argan oil (8%), organic olive oil, shea butter and beeswax. Certified organic ECOCERT, 50 ml, 40 $, available on BeKaBio website.

 

 

 

 

A company that sells make-up but which, since recently, also offers us an increasingly broad range of products in Quebec: Lavera Naturkosmetik, a BDIH certified German company and, since this year, NaTrue . This product line has obtained, in the whole world, several distinctions and prizes and was recognized as “Europe’s Greenest Beauty Brand” in 2008. For those who travel, do not hesitate, in other countries one sells the complete range of products and one is not mistaken with Lavera. Their prices are reasonable, in the same category as the conventional products.
 Lavera   Basis Sensitiv like Carrot Cream With Organic Aloe Vera  of which here the ingredients:
Water (Aqua), Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil*, Alcohol*, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba), Seed Oil*,  Butyrospemum Parki (Shea Butter)*, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil*, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice*, Stearic Acide, Xanthan Gum, Chondrus Crispus, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract, Beta-Carotène, Tocopherol, Lysolecithin, Capsicum Annuum Extract, Brassica Campestris Flower Extract*, Melissa Officinalis Water*, Hamamelis Virginia (Witch Hazel) Water*, Rose Damascena Flower Water*, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Fragrance (Parfum)**, Citral**, Geraniol**, Limonene**, Linalool**


** essential oils

*ingredients resulting from organic agriculture

  Sublime Pure Argan Night Treatment, rich in squalene, vitamin E, Omega 3, 6 & 9, over 10 % Hyaluronic sodium, smoothes and plumps the skin, 50 ml, $ 89,99. Ingredients available on Zorah Biocosmetiques Website.

Attention! Not all the products sold in the stores of natural products (cosmetics) are free from toxic and carcinogenic ingredients. I have bought several of them, many even and after reading with the magnifying glass at home I had to turn them in again. The raison d’être of these products on the shelves is that they are “good sellers”… The labels, as a marketing tool, are very misleading and “green-washing” is very much in fashion, so they should be read with much attention. As regards the figures which you will read on certain certified organic products I advise you to read the chapter on “ Reading the labels ” where you are explained all of this. If you check your ingredients on Skin Deep, avoid the products which have ingredients with a grade 0 of gray color, these ingredients were never evaluated. There are more than 100.000 chemical ingredients on the market today of which 85% have never been tested as far as their impact on the health of human beings is concerned.

  For example, in the Garnier Nutritioniste Ultra-Lift Serum  product, out of 31 ingredients, several are unknown (grade 0 of gray color on  Skin Deep) in the sense that no study was carried out as far as their  harmlessness is concerned. This product is not advisable because it contains too many unknown data.
  Weleda Almond Soothing Facial Lotion,  rated 2 on  Skin Deep,  as its name indicates, it is a lotion of a fluid and light consistency which penetrates easily without leaving any fatty layer on the skin, ideal for a normal or young skin.
  Weleda Almond Intensive Facial Cream  is a richer version for the more mature skins, is graded 1 on  Skin Deep. A beautiful list of ingredients, short and clean.In the Weleda “Almond” collection several facial products are graded 2.
Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Hydrolyzed Beeswax, Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Glycerin, Xanthan Gum, Lactic Acid.

You may have seen in the shops the beauty pearls. In general, these products are mixtures of vegetable and essential oils and are safe, as the Dermophytum from Holistica laboratories. You should, however, check the INCI list and know that you can buy all these oils separately and  make your own blends.  Financially speaking, it would be a better choice.

INCI: Rosa Rubiginosa seed oil, Borago Officinalis seed oil, Helianthus Annuus seed oil, Citrus Aurantium Amara flower oil, Citrus Aurantium Amara peel oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis oil, Limonene, Linalool.


 

 

Cosmetological controversies

 

Classified as “best” by the Guide of Nova Scotia, Weleda Iris day and night creams (I tested them and I liked them) are however graded 5 on   Skin Deep ! The same for Weleda Wild Rose Day Cream , very popular though, it is rated 5 by   Skin Deep   and receives a 4/10 grade for health on  Good Guide  ! Certain ingredients like Limonene, Citral, Citronellol, Linalool are classified “good” by the list of Rita Stiens but provocative of allergies, immune-toxicity, toxicity of the organs and irritations by Skin Deep. The worst ingredient being Eugenol, classified 7/10 in terms of toxicity. Here’s what Rita Stiens says in “  La vérité sur les cosmétiques naturels (The truth about natural cosmetics)” (2006 p. 93): “Weleda is the incarnation of naturopathy and the anthroposophs and provided the foundations of natural beauty care. Almost all of the 97% products are certified ”Controlled natural Cosmetics” in accordance with the specifications of the BDIH”. 

For the  Weleda Wild Rose Day Cream   I did much research to know if it is certified or not and I found different answers: no, yes NaTrue, yes BDIH, dependent on the date of manufacture. On Skin Deep the ingredient “Perfume” is not specified and then it is automatically graded 8 which causes a drop in the general grade of the product to 5 but I think that this problem was corrected lately because I also found it with this list of ingredients where one knows some more about the “Perfume”, as in the following INCI list:

Water (Aqua), Prunus Persica (Peach) Kernel Oil, Prunus Amygdalus (Sweet Almond) Oil, Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Rosa Moschata Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Beeswax, Lysolecithin, Sedum Purpureum Extract, Xanthan Gum, Fragrance (Parfum)*, Limonene*, Linalool*, Citronellol*, Benzyl Alcohol*, Geraniol*, Citral*, Eugenol*, Farnesol*.* Ingredients resulting from natural essential oils

For more explanations concerning these disagreements of classification see the chapter on “ Skin Deep and other tools for the selection of products ”.

Melvita offers diversified facial care according to the type of skins, day and night, but the line of goods of the company is rather restricted over here, at least in the shops that I know.

 

Melvita Apicosma Vivifying Cream for normal and mixed skins and Melvita for young skins, Crème peau neuve  are certified Cosmebio and are care with fine texture, without any feeling of fat on the skin.

 

Organic several facial creams but graded between 2 and 3 by Skin Deep, here are some:  Aubrey Collagen TCM therapeutic cream moisturizer anti-aging , rated 3 , 24 $ Aubrey Organic Vegecol classified 3, 20 $

Aubrey Organic Sea Buckthorn and cucumber with Ester C moisturizing cream , rated 3 , 23 $

Aubrey Organic Hip Moisturizing cream classified 3, 23 $

Aubrey Organic Natural Herbal facial moisturizing , rated 3, 19 $

Two Night Creams (if however you are not too keen about butters and oils…)

  

 

  Crème S 30 by Phyt’s, a tube of 40 gr., Evening Care, dry skin, certified Cosmebio.
Ingredients : Eau (Aqua)- Palme (Elaeis Guineensis)*- Huile Vierge De Noisette (Corylus Avellana)*- Cetearyl Alcohol Cocoglucoside- Beurre De Karité (Butyrospernum Parkii)*- Cire D’abeille (Cera Alba)- Huile Vierge De Tournesol (Helianthus Annus)*- Lavande (Lavandula Latifolia)*- Géranium-Rosat (Pelargonium Graveolens)*- Lavande (Lavandula Angustifolia)*- Romarin (Rosmarinus Officinalis)*- Cyprès (Cupressus Sempervirens)*- Ylang Ylang (Cananga Odorata)*- Patchouli (Pogostemon Cablin)*- Sauge (Salvia Officinalis)*- Marjolaine (Origanum Majorana)*and ingredients naturally present in essential oils: Limonène, Linalol, Farnesol, Géraniol, Citronellol, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzyl Benzoate


*100% of the vegetable ingredients result from organic agriculture, 38% of the total of the ingredients result from organic,100% of the total of the ingredients are of natural origin

“Contrary to the directive from the European Union on cosmetics which explicitly restricts carcinogenics, mutagens and substances toxic for reproduction in cosmetics, Canada did not include within its legislative framework a clear provision of priority interest to prohibit these substances”. David Suzuki Foundation

“Chemical products have replaced viruses and bacteria and have become the principal threat for health. Diseases which one starts to see as the principal causes of death in the last part of the 20 th Century and in the 21st century are diseases which have a chemical origin.”  [1]

 

  Moisturizing melting emulsion from Bio Beauty of Nuxe, a non-fatty light formula, certified ECOCERT and Cosmebio.  

 

Anti-age, hydrating, anti-imperfections creams, everything to please you at Nuxe but attention, they are not all certified! Some contain Perfume and parabens like:

Nuxe Creme Fraiche 24 Hour Energizing Moisture Emulsion  which is in the red on  Skin Deep , rated 8, and  Nuxe Reve de Miel Ultra Comfortable Face Cream  graded 7     with a very long list of ingredients that you would not like too much…
Ingredients : Aqua (Water), Diethylhexyl Carbonate, Octyldodecanol, Dimethicone, Tribehenin PEG 20 Esters , Butylene Glycol, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Glycol Palmitate, Pisum Sativum Extract (Pea), Glycerin, Imperata Cylindrica (Imiperata Cylindrica Root Extract), Mel (Honey Extract), Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Mannitol, Tocopherol, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Polyacrylamide, Carbomer, Proline, Perfume (Fragrance) , Tromethamine, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, C13 14 Isoparaffin, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil, Oxycoccus Palustris Seed Oil (Cranberry), Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides, Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, Soybean Oil (Glycine Soja), Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract (Horse Chestnut), Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato Extract), Beta Carotene, Carrot Extract (Caucus Carota Sativa), Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract (Rosemary), Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract (Sunflower), Aucoumea Klaineanaresin Extract, Tetrasodium EDTA, Tristearin, Glycogen, Laureth 7, Butylparaben , Ethylparaben , Alanine, Phenoxyethanol , Methylparaben , Isobutylparaben , Propylparaben , Caffeine, Zinc Gluconate, Polysorbate 80 , Benzyl Salicylate, Coumarin , Citronellol, Limonene , Linalool
  La Roche-Posay Toleriane Facial Fluid Soothing Protective Non-Oily Emulsion  and  La Roche-Posay Tolériane Facial Fluide  (treatment for oily, acnetic and intolerant skins) are graded 0 on  Skin Deep but attention! it is far from being the case for other products from LaRoche-Posay. On sale in pharmacies.
Ingredients for the non-fatty Emulsion : Aqua/Water – Squalane – Glycerin Dipropylene Glycol Carbomer Sodium Hydroxide – Ethylhexyglycerin – Capryl Glycol
  Burt’s Bees Radiance Sérum, classified 1 on  Skin Deep, 18 $
Ingredients : Water, Glycerin, Alcohol, Royal Jelly, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root, Glucose, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Chloride, Glucose Oxidase, Lactoperoxidase, Caramel. The  Burt’s Bees Repair Serum is graded 10/10 for health on  GoodGuide and it is graded 3 on  Skin Deep. The disagreement is at the level of the presence of vitamin A. For you to judge.
  Avalon Organics Vitamin C Skin Care: Vitality Facial Serum (old formulation) is evaluated 2 on   Skin Deep Avalon Organics Essential Lift Firming Moisturizer, SPF 15 and  Avalon Organics CoQ10 skin care: Wrinkle Defense Creme (old formulation)  are rated 3.
  Zorah Xia, hydrating cream for the face with rich texture and pleasant odor which penetrates very quickly in the skin, 50 ml, 56.99 $ and certified ECOCERT. Posted as a cream for dry skins, it is more appropriate for normal and mixed skins in my opinion, but it is for you to try! Ingredients posted on the  Zorah biocosmétiques  Website.
  Kiss My Face Organics Under Age, Ultra Hydrating Moisturizer (old formulation but still available) is rated 1 on  Skin Deep.Price: 22 $.This company is present in all the stores, but beside some very good solar screens, soaps and cleansers, the other products are rather badly graded on Skin Deep.
Ingredients: Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Leaf Extract),* Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower Oil),* Vitis Vinifera (Grape Seed Oil), Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba Seed Oil),* Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender Flower Extract),* Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile Flower Extract),* Echinacea Angustifolia (Echinacea Leaf Extract),* Hydrastis Canadensis (Golden Seal Root Extract),* Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice Root Extract),* Rumex Crispus (Yellow Dock Root Extract),* Equisetum Arvense (Horsetail Leaf Extract),* Trifolium Pratense (Red Clover Extract),* Olea Europaea (Olive Leaf Extract),* Glycerin, Caprylic Acid, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle Flower Extract), Rosa Damascena (Rose Oil), Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Borago Officinalis (Borage Oi), Allantoin, Potassium Sorbate.


*Certified by Quality Assurance International

  In the Derma E company only two creams  Derma e Organic Expressions® Hydrating Day Cream  and Derma e Organic Expressions® Intensive Night Cream are evaluated 2, the other creams are graded 3 and more; so then, look closely at the labels.Several Derma E Vitamins E 28.000IU, 20.000 IU, 14.000 IU and 3600 IU are graded 1 by Skin Deep..
  The body care l’Herbier, Crème Masso Visage, an unctuous cream with green tea and organic shea butter with certain certified organic ingredients by Quebec Vrai.
  Green Beaver Winter Face Cream, 12 $.
Ingredients: Aqua/Water/Eau, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Arctium Lappa (Burdock) Root Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Oil, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Rhus Verniciflua Peel Wax, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Glyceryl Caprylate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Rosemarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Oil, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium Sorbate, Tocopheryl Acetate
  Green Beaver Facial Moisturizer with Soothing Aloe & anti-oxidant Green Tea suitable for sensitive ski , 13 $.
Ingedients: Aqua, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Glycerin, Cetearyl Glucoside, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Rhus Verniciflua Peel Wax, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Extract, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Seed Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sclerotium Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid.


 

I did not select many Phyt’s products because I think that they are addressed especially to people for whom prices do not matter… But be advised that several facial creams are available in Quebec, choose those which are certified organic like this Crème absolue certified Cosmetique Bio.

Although certain companies manufacture products which are trustworthy to the point that they can be eaten, other companies choose to use agents known to be carcinogenic and toxic for human beings. Almost all of these chemicals can penetrate the skin, and some are introduced directly starting from our lips or from our hands. More than one third of all the products of personal care contain at least an ingredient related to cancer. When dangerous and little studied chemicals are used in cosmetics the stakes can be important: with the difference of the traces of contaminants in food or in tap water the chemicals in cosmetics are basic ingredients.

 


To order via Internet

Creams only containing fruit pigments as the lists of ingredients attest it in the company 100% Pure Canada . No synthetic preservatives! How is that possible? Here’s what the company says about it:

“Rather than using chemical preservatives we use natural ones such as anti-bacterial herbs. 100% Pure owns several other unique technologies which distinguish the company from its competitors. We use a unique technology to stabilize the active ingredients of oxidation which also have an exclusive system of preservation for a 100% natural, by using ingredients like: Japanese honeysuckle, thyme, oregano,  hydrate, rosemary, lavender and a strong concentration of vitamins and anti-oxydants to preserve all the products”. [2]

   

Red Wine Rservatrol Nourishing Cream, 45$.

   

Super Fruits Night Balm, 41$.

  Organic Pomegranate Antioxdant Hydration SPF 20, 34 $.
Active Ingredients:15% Titanium Dioxide 10% Zinc OxideNon active: Organic Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Juice) 1 , Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Seed Oil, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Organic Cera Alba (Beeswax)2, Organic Camelia Sinensis Leaf (White Tea) Extract 2 , Extracts of Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf, Origanum Vulgar (Oregano),Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme), Citrus Grandis Seed (Grapefruit Seed), Origanum Vulgare Leaf (Goldenseal) and Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark (Cinnamon)


1 certified organic by SGS Organic

2 certified organic by USDA

www.100percentpure.ca   

I unfortunately did not test the products of this very original company… They did not send any samples to me…   

 

 

There is a line of organic beauty care products very well graded on Skin Deep, originating in Australia, Miessence . This company is an exception because for 115 of their products analyzed their grades remain green, between 0 and 2 !  I did not test their facial creams however.

13 of their creams are graded between 0 and 1 of whom:

 

Miessence Rejuvenessence Serum – Certified Organic ,    rated 0 .
  Miessence Balancing Moisturiser – Certified Organic ,   graded 1.
  Sérum Énergie, Gold,  30 ml, 54,90€.
Finally, I have already used products of the Gold d’AquaBio range which contain gold and colloidal silver whose anti-bacterial virtues protect the skin against oxydative stress (but you can also separately buy these ingredients in all the shops of natural products if they interest you). To these noble metals are added extracts of bamboo, of licorice and organic caffeine, vegetable squalane and hyaluronic acid. For the mature skins, 50 years and more, I found these products really good, one sees a light difference on the skin, as soon as one makes use of it. BDIH Certified, ingredients available on the Internet. Unfortunately, not on sale over here, to order via Internet if for you the price does not matter.

Before starting our “shopping campaign”, “magasinage” as we like to say here in Quebec, of all these creams and other beauty products which give spice to our lives and comfort our skin, I strongly suggest you to read or reread the chapter on “ Oils, butters and other active ingredients ”. As Adria Vasil is also saying, ” All you need is oil!

 

A study devoted to teenagers detected 16 potentially toxic chemicals of which phthalates, triclosan, parabens and musks in samples of blood and urine of 20 teenagers. The studies relating to these chemicals and their potential effects on health show that cancer and hormonal disturbances are part of it. Teenagers can be particularly sensitive to exposure of hormonal disturbing chemicals given the complex role which they play at the time of puberty, precisely at the moment when girls, in general, try out a great number and variety of body care products. When they were questioned, the teenagers participating in the study stated that they used an average of 17 products of personal care each day, 40% more than what one adult woman would use. (source: www.ewg.org/reports/teens)

In a report from Greenpeace  [3]   concerning the blood of forty-seven pregnant or nursing women and the umbilical cords of twenty-two new-born the conclusions were alarming: traces of bisphenol A, phthalates (perfumes), pesticides, of synthetic musks (cosmetics), of triclosan (toothpastes) were found in all of the samples. Although research is not advanced enough to tell us with precision what are the consequences of such an exposure of the foetus to this cocktail of bio accumulative chemicals concerns are present and rightly so. Protect your family and your environment before the governments, the laws, industries and all the regulations of chemical products decide to act because it’s the consumers who take the risks and the manufacturers who garner the profits. Act before paying a heavy tribute to the chemical madness which has not stopped invading our lives for half a century. [4]

 

To avoid  


 

Dior Capture Totale Multi-Perfection Correction Serum, rated 9 on  Skin Deep  with 61 ingredients in its formula including 9 with a gray grade of 0, i.e. that no study was done concerning their harmlessness.

Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Cyclopentasiloxane , Butylene Glycol, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Diglycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Alcohol, Polysorbate 20, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Propylene Glycol, Polyacrylamide, Hydrolyzed Soy Flour, Sorbitol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Parfum (Fragrance) , Methylparaben , Tocopheryl Acetate, Algin, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Protein, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Faex (Yeast Extract), Calcium Pantetheine Sulfonate, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Extract, Laureth-7, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Cellulose Gum, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Extract, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Aframomum Angustifolium Seed Extract, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Root Extract, Potentilla Erecta Root Extract, Plankton Extract, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Butylphenyl Methylpropional , Zinc Sulfate, Limonene, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Ethylparaben , Butylparaben , Citronellol, Geraniol, Diacetyl Boldine, Propylparaben , Retinyl Palmitate, Linalool, Isobutylparaben , Sodium Metabisulfite , CI 14700 (Red 4), BHT , Tocopherol.

[1] ↑ Dr Dick Irwin, toxicologue, Texas A & M University on Guide to Less Toxic Products of Environmental Health Association of Nova Scotia

[2] ↑ source: www.100percentpure.ca

[3] ↑ WWF Greenpeace “A Present for life, hasardous chemicals in umbilical cord blood” 2005

[4] ↑  I advise people who ask themselves how it is possible that regulations can be such a failure to read the book « Notre poison quotidien » ( Our Daily Poison )  by Marie Monique Robin who in an extra-ordinarily well-documented work explains all of the subtleties and the functioning of the system governing chemical risks and   the “daily acceptable dose.”

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