If, in the past, cosmetic products were expensive and produced in small quantities, often because of rare or inaccessible ingredients, not everyone was able to buy some and their use was often making the difference between the social classes, it is different nowadays. With the explosion of the petrochemical industry and the replacement of the ingredients by synthetic products, the products of personal care and beauty belong to our everyday life whether we are children, women or men. Some among us are not far from the courtiers of the French Sun king who restored their beauty, with cheeks of a beautiful scarlet red, before going to sleep…
Problems in make-up:
It is the kingdom of synthetic colours. Azoic dyes, present in lipsticks and in eyelashes (and in the dyes for hair), are the most problematic. Some are prohibited in Canada but not elsewhere and vice versa; one identifies them by the letters “CI”, followed by a figure (CI 12085, etc…). Many of these problematic dyes are derived from coal tar. “Coal tar is a mixture of many chemicals derived from oil. It is known to be cancer-causing for humans. The principal concern with regard to the various dyes derived from coal tar (whether they are produced from coal tar or whether they are synthesized) is their carcinogenic potential. Moreover, some dyes may contain faint traces of heavy metals, others are associated with an aluminum substrate. Aluminum and several heavy metals are toxic for the brain. Some colourings are not approved as food additives, but they are used in beauty products and can thus be swalowed, like lipstick for example. ” 
BHT and BHA are anti-oxydants that are very commonly present in the products of make-up. Both show toxic effects.
Tests on animals have shown links between BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene) and cancer and of the harmful effects for the brain and the nervous system, even with small amounts. This ingredient is classified as harmful and toxic by Environnement Canada. Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA) is a preservative often present in correction products which is known to be carcinogenic having the capacity to pass through the skin. 
Environmental Defence tested the makeup bags of six Canadian women. 49 face makeup items were chosen, including five foundations, four concealers, four powders, five blushes or bronzers, seven mascaras, two eye liners, 14 eye shadows, and eight lipsticks or glosses. We released the results in a report titled, ” Heavy Metal Hazard: The Health Risks of Hidden Heavy Metals in Face Makeup “. Products such as Sephora , Clinique Stay-True Makeup , Loreal , Avon , Body Shop , Covergirl’s were found “champions” in their category for the most amount of heavy metals present in their formulas.
I chose to present to you in this chapter several products in a jumble, some gathered by brand, because these are products that I already tested and which I know and others that I did not test yet but whose technical formula has a good harmlessness (innocuité) and for which you have good chances to find them in the boutiques, pharmacies or department stores.
Makeup products by Zorah Biocosmetics.
BBB tinted creams, hybrid products between day cream and foundation, are very practical and ingenious, 3 eyeliners available, blue, brown and black and several Eye Shadows that you will particularly enjoy since they are presented as a gel-cream in a tube with an applicator such as a lip gloss.
All ingredients lists are available on the website of the company.
This small Canadian company was suggested to me by a Facebook Friend who, like me, suffers from many allergies to makeup. These formulas are simple, natural and environmentally friendly and they are a fine example of “ true natural ” versus “ fake natural ” like Covergirl NatureLuxe Collection for instance. I think these products will be enjoyed by sensitive and allergic people to eye shadows and mascaras.
Reflet d’Iris ‘s Eyeshadow by Les Herbes Aux Soins, 2,5 ml, 8 $
Avalable in 7 different shades, (Metallic Green, Metallic blue, White satin, Dew, Earth, Red sparkly, Gold). Simple formulas, good holding, trendy makeup and stylish!
These ingredients may be found in one or several eyeshadows : Mica 2, Titanium Dioxyde 1-3, Maranta Arundinacea Arrowroot 0, Iridis germanica 0, Iron Oxide 2, Chromium oxide green 2-4, Ferric ferro cyanide 1-4, Bismuth Oxychloride 0
Organic Zuii, Australian make-up available in the Montreal area offers varied choices. This brand shows some transparency because the ingredient lists are posted on their website (in English). The Certified Organic Flora Brush, for example, displays the certified organic ingredients, but the entire product is not certified organic. Several certifications are posted on the site (including Cosmos Organic), but we can not know what label applies to what product, unless we hold the product or the packaging in our own hands. I tried the “melon” blush: very satisfying and better be, because over $ 30 !
It should be said that, for organic make-up , in terms of presentation and marketing, we are in another world than the one of of the great supermarkets, and I would understand those that will pass by the shelves without buying… It takes time to become accustomed but it will come and you will fully appreciate to play the part of an actor in this « ecological » turn-around.
Personally, I like the Lavera Naturkosmetik products a lot. It is my first love in the world of the organic cosmetics and as for all the first loves, one keeps for them forever affection and nostalgia… Each time I travelled, I bought products which were not on sale over here but which eventually, to my great happiness, became available here. I also saw a report on the certified organic cosmetics where this company was given as an example. But none of this does abolish, of course, the principle of individual verification of each product and the fact that no company manufactures only excellent products. Several interesting non-toxic powders are available in this brand for those who like these products but not all are certified, so you should more closely check the ingredients (some contain talc powder) according to the sensitivity of your skin. In the field of make-up, certain products are certified, others are only controlled organic and, unfortunately, the prices are higher than for the products of conventional make-up.
Unfortunately, organic products have a more limited lifespan and sometimes we are obliged to put them in the dustbin even if the container is still full….
My favourite is however the make-up foundation Lavera Tinted Moisturizing Cream . Transparent, light, discrete, perfect for a day-time make-up but, obviously, it all also depends upon the colour of your skin, … Price: 22 $.
I think that, for certified or controlled organic make-up foundations, no matter what the brand is (4 colours in Lavera and two correctors) there is room for improvement, we are still far from the performances of the conventional products. The ‘nuancer’ is not developed enough and the textures remain opaque, sometimes we are obliged to mix several colours and even several brands to obtain something which resembles us.
||Several kinds of mascara are available in this brand of which Lavera volume jojoba and rose nr. 1 BDIH certified (also in brown and blue) 10/10 note for health on GoodGuide of which are here the ingredients:|
|Water (Aqua), Alcohol*, Sorbitol, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil*, Tricaprylin, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Hectorite, Lysolecithin, Rosa Damascena Flower Water*, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Fragrance (Parfum)  , [+/- Iron Oxides (CI 77499), Iron Oxides (CI 77491), Iron Oxides (CI 77492), Ultramarines (CI 77007)].*certified ingredients resulting from organic agriculture|
|I tested several eyeliner pencils and I particularly liked the nr. 4 Kajal grey and nr. 5 green , there is also a kôhl pencil, pencils for the lips and the eyebrows as well as an “eyeliner,” but it all depends on what you will find at the boutique near you…8/10 the health mark for the eyeliners on GoodGuide .|
|Eye shadows are products which do not have anything to fear from conventional cosmetics. Maximum holding, super-fashionable colours! from 18 $ down to 3.50 $.|
In connection with Kôhl pencils , here is what I found in a recent article on Passeport santé : ”A study has highlighted that the Kôhl, imported from the Middle East, from India, from Pakistan as well as from certain areas of Africa also cause intoxication. Let us point out how this black substance is traditionally used to protect the eyes of various diseases but it can contain up to 83% of lead ! This study showed that on 538 young girls between 6 and 12 years kôhl caused an increase in the level of lead in young girls. (Al-Saleh I, Nester M, DeVol E, et al. Determinants of blood lead levels in Saudi Arabian schoolgirls. Int J Occup Environ Health 1999; 5: 107-14.)”
Here are some options among the best non-toxic mascaras available at the pharmacy or stores:
|The Body Shop Waterproof Mascara – Black and Brown (10/10 health grade on GoodGuide ), L’Oreal Paris Voluminous (R) Waterproof Mascara Black, 8/10 grade for health on GoodGuide . L’Oreal Double Extend Waterproof Lash Fortifier & Extender Mascara , the black and the brown one are graded 2 on Skin Deep. Only the mascaras enumerated below (but not the complete brand) are graded 2 on Skin Deep. Revlon 3D Extreme Waterproof Mascara, Black Brown. Revlon 3D Waterproof Extreme Mascara, Blackest Black 621. Revlon Mascara Blackest Black 621. Revlon 3D Waterproof Extreme Mascara, Black 622. Revlon 3D Waterproof Extreme Mascara, Black Brown 623. Maybelline Sky High Curves Waterproof Mascara, Brownish Black. Maybelline Sky High Curves Waterproof Mascara, Very Black.Starting from grade 3, mascaras contain parabens.|
If you are allergic to a colour (CI+number) in particular it is necessary to generally ask the company for details because INCI formulas of the eyeliner pencils and pencils for the lips include ingredients of all the colours available and not only of the pencil that you bought. In the field of make-up certain products manufactured by the same company can be certified, others not, for the same type of product (for instance eye shadows or lipsticks) certain nuances are certified others are not.
< Vegan > is not an organic certification!
Because of the prohibition of certain chemical ingredients by the Organic Certification Specifications, you will will not find “waterproof” certified organic mascara.
Other interesting mascaras from a harmlessness (innocuité) point of view:
| Mascara with fruit pigments 100% Pure Canada , 100% naturalness, 100% vegetarian. Being for a 100% natural, this mascara lengthens, separates, thickens and makes shine the lashes with fruit pigments and with pigments of black tea. Contains B5 vitamin, vitamin E, oats and proteins of corn for healthier lashes. Soft, very natural, this formula is adapted for all, even if you wear lenses or if you have sensitive eyes. Resistant to water and does not stain.  Price: 23 $. I did not try it.
Colours obtained from:Black tea – 0,32 oz/7 g, Mulberry – 0,32 oz/7 g, Bleuberries – 0,32 oz/7 g, Black chocolate – 0,32 oz/7 g
|Ingredients: Organic Green Tea, Vitamin E (a-tocopherol), Honey Beeswax, Contains All or some of the following Pigments: Blackberry, Blueberry, Black Tea, Grape Skin, Pomegranate, Acai Berry, Boysenberry, Blackcurrant and Raspberry, Oat Protein, Wheat Protein, Provitamin B5, Seaweed Powder, Coconut Stearic acid, Mica (for shimmer in the Blackberry and Blueberry), Cocoa Butter, Pearl Powder, Rice Powder, Cacao Powder and Powdered Coffee Beans, Lavender Honey, Extracts of Oregano, Thyme, Rosemary, Lavender and Golden Seal.|
| Cheeky Cosmetics Mascara is a simple and unpretentious product, but it does not dry and it does not fall! $ 20.
Ingredients: Aqua, Rosa Damascena*, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate***, Iron Oxides, Panthenol, Acacia, Gluconolactone**, Sodium Benzoate**
|Miessence Mascara Pure Black , classified first among 3408 make-up products for the eyes with a 10/10 note for health on GoodGuide and classified 1 on Skin Deep. To order on Internet, there is a distributor in Montreal. On Skin Deep you will find 117 Miessence products analyzed, all graded green, between 0 and 2.|
|I recently saw in the boutiques Zuii make-up , an Australian company. On the leaflet that was provided to me the products carry the logo USDA ORGANIC which confirms the capacity to enter the American market and on the company’s website one reads “Australian Government Certified” and OFC (Organic Food Chain) which is an Australian ecological certification.I did not test the products of this brand except for the lipsticks and the blush. Verify, at the time of the purchase, if the product which interests you is certified organic. I analyzed in an individual way the ingredients of Zuii Certified organic Flora Mascara and here are the results.|
|Ingredients: Aqua, Aqua ( Water) Alcohol*, Natural Beeswax* 0 , Cera Alba (Natural Beeswax) 0 , Geranium Oil* 0 , Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil 1 , Rose Damascena* 0 , Rose Damasena Flower Oil 0 , Palmarosa Oil* 1 , Cymbopogon Martini (Palmarosa) Oil 1 , Orange Oil*, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil 1 , Horsetail Extract*, Equisetum Arvense( Horsetail) Extract 0 , Nettle Leaf Extract* 0 , Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Leaf Extract 0 , Honeysuckle Extract 0 , Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract 0 , Stearic Acid 1 , Cetearyl Alcohol 1 , Kaolin 0 – 1 , Sorbitan Olivate 0 , Panthenol 1 , D Panthenol 0 ,Tocopherol 2 , D Alpha Tocopherol 1 , Alginic Acid 0 , May Contain (+/-): Ci 77019 2 , Mica 2-5, Ci 77891 1 – 3 , Titanium Dioxide 1 – 3 , Ci 77007 1 , Iron Oxide 2 , Ci 77289 2 , Ci 77491 2 , Ci 77492 0|
|Recently arrived on the market, the brand Naturkosmetik Sante offers us the whole range of make-ups, eye shadows, powders, make-up foundations, pencils, all products being BDIH certified. I tested the mascara Endless Lashes , 22.99 $, lengthens the lashes, but like many other certified mascaras, it dries and falls … I think Sante Naturkosmetik does not offer very competitive prices… Some products of this brand are analyzed on the site of Rita Stiens.|
I did not select tanning powders because of their dangers to health but Miessence sells a tanning powder with a good harmlessness (Miessence Organic Bronzing Dust) which deserves a 8/10 for health on GoodGuide and several powders, make-up foundations, correctors and make-ups from this brand are very, very well-graded on Skin Deep.
On the Quebec market you can also find Logona make-up, a brand rather known for its excellent shampoos and its vegetable colourings. I tested the Khôl Eyeliner Black n° 01 and the Compact Powder , nothing to say but good about. Logona mascara is BDIH certified as well as the make-up foundation and the pencils.
Organic Wear, the first line of make-up certified ECOCERT in the United States (of which about thirty products are graded between 0 and 2 on Skin Deep the others can go up to 5), is interesting for its reasonable prices. At Organic Wear, there is a great choice of powders, make-up foundations and even some tanning products quite well-graded but the most interesting products, in my opinion, are several make-up foundations with a SPF 15 graded 2. In the conventional products, these make-up foundations with solar filters are to be avoided, because they contain hormonal disturbing synthetic filters  .
The Organic Wear products are on sale at certain Pharmaprix. I contacted Pharmaprix to provide me the list of the branches which detail these products but they answered me that “our stores place their orders of goods themselves, because they are each one the property of the franchised ones and their management is carried out in an autonomous way. Since the initiatives of our stores vary according to the region, we do unfortunately not have a central data base of all our products available in store”. There you go!
In terms of products of care, cosmetics and especially of make-up, things move quickly and the innovations do not stop arriving. In Europe, companies multiply from one day to another and compete to the great happiness of the consumers. As we saw in the chapter dedicated to the certified organic cosmetics, this market is in full expansion and, although in Quebec things advance more gently, I can say that, already, in two years time, or since I am closely interested in this field, I saw the stores worrying more and more about the quality of the products sold. Certain big supermarkets even try to introduce healthier products among those of the conventional cosmetic industry but caution ! The line between real and fake organic is very vague. It’s our choices as consumers that will determine the behaviour of the industries, the importers and the retailers. The organic is not a fashion but another way of consuming.
|100% Pure Canada offers a whole range of make-up: powders, eye shadows, pencils, make-up foundations, mascaras, correctors, pencils are containing vegetable and fruit pigments. The lists of ingredients attest these assertions. Here’s for instance the list of ingredients of the corrector with a SPF 20 ( Fruit Pigmented Brightening Concealer With Spf 20 ):|
|Ingredients: Organic Green Tea 1 , Organic Rose Hydrosol (1), Organic Green Coffee (2), Organic Rice Powder (3), May contain all or some of the following pigments: Organic Peach (4), Organic Apricot (4), Organic Carrot (3), Organic Pomegranate (4), Organic Cocoa Bean (3), Organic Goji Berry (3) and Organic Tomato (3), Aloe Vera, Organic Lavender (3), Organic Chamomile (1), Organic Rosehip Oil (1), Candelilla Wax, Vitamin E (a-tocopherol), Vitamin C (ascorbyl palmitate), Extracts of Organic Rosemary (3), Organic Oregano (3), Organic Thyme (3), Organic Grapefruit Seed (3) and Organic Goldenseal (5).|
|Sunscreen active Ingredients: 15% Titanium Dioxide and 10% Zinc Oxid
1 certified organic by Oregon Tilth Certified Organic
2 certified organic by Hawaii Organic Farmers Association
3 certified organic by QAI
4 certified organic by Organic Certifiers
5 certified organic by Maryland Department of Agriculture
|Lip Pencils acceptable according to Skin Deep’s criteria in Dr. Hauschka , all graded 3 : Dr.Hauschka Skin Care Lipliner Lip Pencil, 03 Romantica, Dr. Hauschka Skin Care Lipliner Lip Pencil, 01 Barocco, Dr. Hauschka Skin Care Lipliner Lip Pencil, 02 Classica, Dr. Hauschka Skin Care Lipliner Lip Pencil, 06, Dr. Hauschka Skin Care Lipliner Novum Lip Pencil, Novum (lip liner) 3|
Best Makeup with SPF according to EWG . You may find Organic Wear and Avene in some pharmacies and ColoreScience is available only in some dermatologist clinics.
To Avoid :
|For make-up foundations, NARS Firming Foundation Liquid, Stromboli (and four others) have a maximum grade of degree of danger 10 on Skin Deep , containing ingredients related to cancer (4), with hormonal disturbances, allergies, irritations, toxicity of the reproductive system and the environment.|
|Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum/Fragrance , Aqua/Water/Eau, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Limonene , Citronellol, Hydroxyisohexyl 3 Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde , Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzophenone 3 , Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Benzyl Salicylate , Hydroxycitronellal , Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Alpha Isomethyl Ionone, Propylene Glycol, Linalool, Geraniol, Citral, Isoeugenol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Alcohol, BHT , Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, FD&C Yellow 6 (CI 15985), Red 40 (CI 14700), Green 3 (CI 42053).|
Other popular make-up foundations like, Revlon and l’Oréal have maximum grades of danger on Skin Deep, take a look! You can check 237 products Maybelline, 245 Cover Girl and 243 Revlon which are graded on GoodGuide.
|Nuxe Touche Prodigieuse Complexion Multi-Perfecting Retouch Brush, 02 Dark Skin is rated 9 on Skin Deep with far from advisable ingredients:|
|Cyclopentasiloxane, Aqua/Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Polyethylene, Propylene Glycol, Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, PEG/PPG 18/18 Dimethicone , Dimethicone Crosspolymer , Butylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Boron Nitride, Tocopherol, Dextrin Palmitate, Oryza Sativa Hull Powder (Rice), PEG 6 Isostearate , Quaternium 90 Bentonite, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum/Fragrance , Mica, Cyclohexasiloxane, Alcohol, Dimethiconol, Alumina , Talc, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Methylparaben , Tetrasodium EDTA, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Lauroyl Lysine, Hesperetin Laurate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol , Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Amyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Salicylate, Coumarin, Geraniol , Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxyisohexyl 3 Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Limonene , Linalool, May Contain (+/-): Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Aluminum Hydroxide.|
Guide of products of hygiene, beauty care and non-toxic cosmetics
 ↑ Gillian Deacon, There’s Lead in Your Lipstick, 2011.
 ↑ From: www.100%pure.ca Web Site
 ↑ According to The Observatoire des cosmétiques 2011-2012 an anti-UV filter in a make-up foundation acts only for hardly 2 hours, therefore do not believe that you’re safe all day long by using only these make-up foundations…