“The signs are sufficiently disturbing for the European Union, through the SCPHC (Scientific Committee of the Products for Human Consumption) to publish a list of 22 colouring substances prohibited since December 2006. There remain quite a few authorized substances which are food for debate: resorcin (or resorcinol), diaminobenzenes (p-phenylenediamine and m-phenylenediamine), ethanolamine (to replace ammonia). All are proven irritants and allergenic. Main culprit: p-phenylenediamine (or PPD). PPD is even prohibited by the European legislation in all cosmetics intended to be in contact with the skin. It is only authorized in dyes, provided that its concentration does not exceed 6%. While waiting for the decisive investigation which will be conclusive, it is better to apply the principle of precaution by preferring semi-permanent colourings or better still, by choosing plant colourings. ” 
In October 2011, a Scottish teenager, Tabatha McCourt, died shortly after the application of a hair dye. One suspects that the reaction to the dye PPD (p-phenylenediamine) was the cause. In Canada PPD is not authorized to be used in make-up but it is a common ingredient in capillary dyeings. A little more than a month after the death of Tabatha McCourt another British woman finds herself in a coma because of a colouring from a supermarket. The diagnosis is identical: the two women suffered from a severe allergic reaction due to the chemicals contained in the dyeing (L’Oreal Préférence).
Now, consumers in the United Kingdom question the use of PDD, and a lawyer from Manchester launched a campaign to get it out of the shelves  .
If you wish to know the 22 ingredients that have been used in hair dyeings and which were recently prohibited I recommend to you the French website Le Flacon  according to which 60% of women and 10% of men in Europe dye their hair.
Here’s a series of problematic ingredients present in capillary colourings  :
◦ Resorcinol : used in three quarters of chemical colourings, it is allergenic. It can penetrate in the skin and damage the kidneys and the liver. Clinical tests have shown that it modifies the blood globules and the chromosomes.
◦ Ammonium Lauryl Sulphates : surface-active. (see ” Dirty List “)
◦ P-Phenylenediamine (PPD) : very allergenic, suspected of cancerogenicity.
◦ P-Aminophenol : mutagen of class 3 (possibility of irreversible effects)
◦ O-Aminophenol : mutagen of class 3 (possibility of irreversible effects).
◦ M-Phenylene Diamine : mutagen of class 3 (possibility of irreversible effects). It damages the embryo in the rat and has a mutagenic effect on bacteria
◦ Butoxyethanol (a glycol ether): proven genotoxic effect, carcinogenic activity.
◦ PEG (polyethylene glycol) : used as emulsifiers, solvents or to give a pearly brightness. (see “ Dirty List ”)
- Are obtained from pollutant gases:◦ Toluene-2,5-diamine : very allergenic.
- Toluene-2,5-diamine sulphates : very allergenic.“The main responsible for allergies is para-phenylenediamine, PPD, a colouring agent which comprises multiple derivatives present in almost all permanent dyeing.
[DR.] a fact aggravates dermatologist Pierre Piletta: “It is a little sad, because para-phenylenediamine is a colouring that causes many allergies. It is known and licensed since the 19th century and it has always been present in the products used to date. The more one uses a product, the greater the risk that one becomes allergic to it… (read more) 
The glycol ethers present in the dyeings for hair are toxic for the blood cells, for the cells of the immune system and the reproductive system. 
“One should minimize the use of permanent capillary dyeings of dark colour. Many of them contain coal tar ingredients, including aminophenol, diaminobenzene, and phenylenediamine, related to cancer. ” 
Watch also the 2 minutes video Hair Colouring Nightmare.
Now that we know that dyeings for hair are dangerous for health, let us turn towards hair dyes known as “natural”.
Over the years, several “natural dyes” evaluations have been made.
Since March 29, 2007 (date of publication), there are still reactions to the article ” Colourings: a real poison” on soignezvous.com website (in French). This text is still valid and is a good summary about the “natural color” hair.
In 2007 the Maison bio publishes a comparative table of 6 hair capillary colourings sold in Organic stores (still available on the Internet, however, I must point out that the analysis are done for one single color by brand and the chosen colors are quite light).
In the TV show ” Hair coloring: the natural change their spots ! ” broadcasted on February 16, 2010 on RTS , a decryption of several « natural brands » such as Herbatint , Phytocolor , Sanotint , Naturtint is reveled. Conclusion: “In these products, which are presented as natural, you will see that there is PPD, well known to dermatologists because it is very sensitizing, very allergenic. They also contain synthetic chemical dyes, which are not toxicologically harmless. “ 
Detailed analysis ( 2011 ) of brands like Martine Mahé , Color & Soin , Tints of NAURE , Phyto Color , Essential Color , Herbatint , Beliflor made by Rita Stiens clearly show that “under an impression of nature lies a good deal of chemistry.” 
A recent investigation published on www.femininbio.com about the so-called plant colourings sold in France (some can be found over here also) reveals the same thing.
“The so-called plant or natural colourings which have a convincing result on the coverage of white hair contain many substances of synthesis and this, even if these products are sold in organic stores; result: mistrust. A 100% plant colourings are certainly better for the health, as much the one of the hairdresser as the one of the user, but do not expect to cover white hair completely or to go toward platinum blond. At best they will deposit a pretty lasure and will bring vitality and brightness to your hair. It is up to you to make an enlightened choice between beauty and health. ”
To understand the subterfuges of the industry, you should know that there are roughly three classes of dyes:
- Vegetable powders plant based dyes (henna, indigo, walnut, beets, pepper, etc..) mixed usually with hot water and for which the exposure time is very long, 4 to 24 hours ;
- Temporary dyes or semi-permanent (tone on tone) used to give a reflection or revive a color, with low surface oxidation, the pigments do not penetrate into the hair, they just cover it superimposed on the natural pigments; these dyes fade after 6 to 8 shampoos and do not cover proprely the white hair;
- Permanent dyes by sustainable oxidation allowing a radical change of color and effective recovery of white hair ; they are composed of two elements to mix, 1 color + 1 dye developer (peroxide) accompanied by an essential neutralizing product. The principle of this color technic is to deposit the synthetic pigments directly inside the hair. To allow these pigments to go in, the outer scales of the hair must be opened and this is done by the action of an alkali such as ammonia or his substitute, less irritating, ethanolamine. This is where the peroxide which, by releasing its oxygen, will gradually develop the color pigments making them swell inside the hair. Once this development is complete, it is sufficient to neutralize the alkali to close the scales .
But let’s rather see what is really in the box and what are the ingredients, especially for dyes sold in the stores of natural products, so-called ”natural dyes” and what has changed in the industry today, in 2012?
Here are six analyzed hair dyes available on the natural and organic stores shelves.
For accuracy in the comparison of the brands, all analysis were made for one color, black.
For the meaning of numbers and colors listed ingredients, see Chapter Skin Deep and other tools…
PERMANENT HAIR DYES
INCI: aqua 0 , cetearyl alcohol 1 , ethanolamine 4-6 , polysorbate-80 3-6, p-phenylenediamine 10  , isopropyl stearate 0 , ceteareth-30 4-7  , sodium lauryl sulfate 1-2 , propylene glycol 3 , tetrasodium EDTA 2 , parfum 8 , sodium hydrosulfite 0 , ascorbic acid 0 , juglans regia extract 0 , betula alba extract 0 , vitis vinifera extract 0 , biotin 0 , panicum miliaceum extract 0 , calcium pantothenate 0 , amyl cinnamal 1 , limonene 6 , benzyl salicylate 6 , 4 chlororesorcinol 5 , resorcinol 9  , 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole sulfate 1
This formula is similar to many other conventional dyes sold in pharmacies, the only advantage is that of being a cream,  therefore kinder to the hair.
Collaboration of the company: very good cooperation and full transparency
« Green Technologies »
« No Ammonia, No resorcinol, No parabens »
INCI : peg-2 oleamine 3 , aqua (purified watter) 0 , cocamide dea 6 , alcohol denat (alcohol) 2 , propylene glycol 3 , oleic acid 1 , ethanolamine 6 , p-phenylenediamine 10 , sodium sulfite 1 , tetrasodium edta 2 , hydrolized vegetable proteine (not precised), sodium erythorbate 0 , n,n-bis (2-hydroxythyl)-p-phenylenediamine sulfate 3 , 2-amino-4-hydrohyethylaminoanisole sulfate 1 , 4-chlororesorcinol 5
Color developer : aqua (purified watter) 0 , hydrogen peroxide 2 , cetyl alcohol 1 , cetearyl alcohol 1 , laureth-3 3 , ceteareth-20 4-7  , oxyquinoline sulfate 4
“Permanent color with plant extracts” ( yes, but the dyes are synthetic )
“Rich in pure pigments” ( it means nothing )
“Without ammonia, resorcinol No, No Parabens, No silicone” ( no guarantee as to the other ingredients in the formula and their safety )
“Dermatologist tested” ( in this case, why make a warning dermatological testing before use !? No legal obligation rests with the manufacturer after this display )
INCI : peg-2 oleamine 3 , aqua purificata (purified watter) 0 , cocamide dea 6 , alcohol denat (alcohol) 2, propylene glycol 3 , oleic acid 1 , ethanolamine 6 , p-phenylenediamine 10 , sodium sulfite 1 , tetrasodium edta 2 , hydrolized vegetable proteine (triticum vulgare 0 , corn ? not precised, avena sativa 0 ), sodium erythorbate 0 , n,n-bis (2-hydroxythyl)-p-phenylenediamine sulfate 3 , 2-amino-4-hydrohyethylaminoanisole sulfate 1 , 4-chlororesorcinol 5
Fixateur: aqua (purified watter) 0 , hhydrogen peroxide 2 , cetyl alcohol 1 , cetearyl alcohol 1 , laureth-3 3 , ceteareth-20 4-7  , oxyquinoline sulfate 4
2-amino-4-hydrohyethylaminoanisole sulfate 1 , 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene 5 , 4chlororesorcinol 5 , alcohol denat (alcohol) 2 , aqua purificata (purified watter) 0 , cetearyl alcohol 1 , cocamide dea 6 , ethanolamine 6 , hydrolized vegetable proteine -triticum vulgare- 0 , hydrolized vegetable proteine -corn- (not precized), hydrolized vegetable proteine -avena sativa- 0 , hydrolized vegetable proteine -soy- (not precized), m-aminophenol 5 , n,n-bis (2-hydroxythyl)-p-phenylenediamine sulfate 3 , oleic acid 1 , peg-2 oleamine 3 , p-phenylenediamine 10 , propylene glycol 3 , sodium erythorbate 0 , sodium sulfite 1 , tetrasodium edta 2
FIXATEUR : ceteareth-20 4 – 7 , cetearyl alcohol 1 , hydrogen peroxide 2 , laureth-3 3 , oxyquinoline sulfate 4
NATURTINT 1N Ebony Black and Color & Care 1 N Ebony Black : the formulas and the price are identical for it is the same manufacturer, the only differences are the details in plant proteins on the NATURTINT boxes. No Resorcinol but Cocamide Dea 6 and Ethanolamine 6 …
As for ingredients “from natural sources, approved and certified according to Natural and Organic Standards”, as it says on the box, we do not know in which one (there is no *), or their percentage in the formula or the name of the certifying organisation. ” Natural and Organic Standards ” is pure fiction , it does not exist! Here is a clear evidence of “green-washing.” When the « how much of the nourishing elements are present in the formula factor » will be honestly clarified (this does not alter the damage caused by heavy chemicals) we will change our consumption choices, as long they are listed at the bottom of the pack (probably below 1%) their presence makes no significant difference.
Collaboration of the company: none.
4. Herbatint Permanent Herbal Color Gel , 1N, BLACK, 16.99 $ ( Skin Deep ) globale score: 8
With Aloe Vera, No Amonia, No Paraben
« More conditioning lasting color with Aloe vera and Limnanthes alba. »
INCI: Laureth-5 3 , Propylene Glycol 3 , Water 0 , PEG-2 Oleamine 3 , Ethanolamine 6 , Walnut Extract 0 , Rhubarb Extract 0 , Cinchona Extract 0 , Aloe Extract 1 , Meadowfoam Extract 0 , Birch Extract 2 , Cetrimonium Chloride 3 , Echinacea Angustifolia Extract 0 , Hamamelis Virginiana Extract 0 , Sodium Sulfite 1 , Ascorbic Acid 0 , Tetrasodium EDTA 2 , Resorcinol 9 , M ( 5 )-O-P Aminophenol 8, 2 Amino 3 Hydroxypyridine 1 , M-P Phenylenediamine P- 10 , M- 8 .
Glycol Developer: Water 0 , Hydrogen Peroxide 2 , Etidronic Acid 0 , Wild Marjoram Extract 0 , Thyme Extract 1 , Cinnamon Extract 0 , Rosemary Extract 0 , Lavender Extract 0 , Golden Seal Root Extract 0 , PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 4 , Propylene Glycol 4 , Simethicone 0 . Royal Cream Conditioner: Water 0 , Mallow Extract 0 , Rosemary Extract 0 , Behentrimonium Chloride 1 , Wheat Bran Lipids 0 , Fragrance 8  .
I have no comment to make, the classification of Skin Deep says it all. 22 Herbatint dyes analyzed, all in the red, between 7 and 8 on Skin Deep. Ouch!
Many conventional products sold in pharmacies are better ranked than this ” Herbal ” Tint! Are we and our health really taken care of when people put products on the shelves containing ppd, resorcinol, aminophenol and perfume! ?
Collaboration of the company when I asked the INCI list: ” All the ingredients are listed on the bottom cover of the packaging. If you have questions about the ingredients do not hesitate to contact us again. Good day. ”
You be the judge!
On the box, a single list of ingredients for all colors.
INCI : WATER 0 , ETHANOLAMINE 6 , PROPYLENE GLYCOL 4 , PEG 2 OLEAMINE 3 , LAURETH-7 3 , LAURETH-4 3 , PEG-2 COCAMINE 3-6 , QUATERNIUM-75 0 , BEHENYL ALCOHOL 0 , CETEARYL ALCOHOL 1 , CETEARETH–25 4-7 , STEARIC ACID 1 , BEHEMET-30 0 , DECYL TETRADECANOL 0 , POLYQUATERNIUM-22 0 , PEG-6 CAPRYLIC GLYCERIDE 3-6 , PEG-20 STEARATE 3-6 , BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 1 , OLETH-10 (corn oil) 3 , ZEA MAYS 0 , ROSEMARY OIL 0 , CALENDULA OFFICINALIS 0 , PETROLATUM 2 , LANOLIN 4 , LANOLIN ALCOH., 0 (not precised) COCAMIDE DEA 6 , BEESWAX 0 , POLYAMIDE 2 1 , DIMETHICONE Peg-8 Meadowfoamate 3-6 , FRAGRANCE 8 , POLYSORBATE 65 0 , MEADOWFOAMAMIDOPROPYL-BETAINE (introuvable), TRIETHANOLAMINE 5 , SODIUM METABISULFITE 5 , TETRASODIUM EDTA 2
Is that possible?
Intrigued, I went to see another color, the Copper Light Blonde/Biondo Chro Ramato 8 R and there, more surprises, the specific pigments (“according to color”) are written on the tube: P-PHENILENEDIAMINE 10 , M,O,P-AMINOPHENOL 8 , RESORCINOL 9 , 2-AMINO-3-HYDROXYPYRIDINE 1 , 1.5 DI-HYDROXYNAPHTALENE 1 , P-AMINO-O-CRESOL 5 , 2-AMINO-4-HYDROXYETHYLAMINO ANISOLE SULFATE 1 , N,N-BIS(2-HYDROXYETHYL 0 , p-PHENYLENEDIAMINE SULFATE 1 , 2.4 DIAMINOPHENOXYETHANOL 1 , and what follows is masked with a dark blue pen, almost black … the camouflage is done with a permanent marker, you can not know what is written under …
But what do they sell to us? 11 synthetic pigments in a “no ammonia, no lead” dye, labels substitution and hidden ingredients on the shelves of health food stores ! On this tube, we are still not able to know if the ingredients « according to color » are those which correspond to Light Copper Blonde / 8R Biondo Chro Ramato… but they are not the same « according to color » written on the cardboard box, so we deduce that these are ingredients specific to this color!?! And if this is the case, it is a true horror story, because the blond is supposed to be less toxic than dark colors!
You will find websites that recommend this product as one of the best of the “natural color” choices! But who writes on these forums!?! Another example that “no ammonia” (like “no paraben” for cosmetics) does not guarantee a less toxic product. You will find more blondes dyes like semi-permanent Clairol Natural Instincts and other companies listed 5 or 6 on Skin Deep which are sold in pharmacies for $ 10.49 ($ 6.99 on special) which have no green claims or indecent prices and which do not contain P-PHENILENEDIAMINE 10 , or P-AMINOPHENOL 8 , nidher RESORCINOL 9 , like this product.
Collaboration of the company: none.
Here is the company’s response:
« We do not have the INCI list for you at this time, but this is EcoColors full ingredient list which is formulated in non-toxic amounts. ( well, give as the exact percentages for more credibility… )
Haircolor: Water, dihydroxyethyl soyamine dioleate, aqua ammonia, denatured alcohol, oleic acid, linseed oil, castor oil, lecithin, lanolin, silk, ascorbyl palmitate vitamin C, rosemary oil, vitamin E, love , grapefruit seed extract, organic flower essences. May contain one or more of the following ( this information is irrelevant, the consumer wants to know what the product he uses contains, not the full range of colors ): aminophenol sulfate; aminophenol, methyl-resorcinol; napthol, 3-methyl-1-phenyl-5-pyrazolone; 2-methyl-1,4-benzene diamine sulfate; ppd ; 2 hydroxyethyl amino2-ethylphenol.
Developer: Water, buffered food grade hydrogen peroxide, jojoba oil, oleic acid, acrylic copolymer, castor oil, linseed oil, lemon grass essential oil ».
« Also, ppd in EU is now regulated with 2% being acceptable. We don’t know if the woman who died from an allergic reaction had reactions in the past that she ignored. Just because ppd is present, doesn’t make it a mutagen but it is an allergen for some people ».
Collaboration of the company: good and thank you for the most important ingredient: love.
Ha! Good news! 2% of ppd is permitted in the United States, 6% in France, but not limits in Canada (“The specified percentage of PPD authorized in such preparations is not defined in the regulations” Health Canada’s response).
Several analyzed (970) dyes as Clairol , Garnier , L’Oreal , Herbal Eseence , Revlon (several “ammonia free” are rated 10 !) Preference are available on Skin Deep . Enter the exact name of your color (in English) to see if you are lucky enough to find it.
- All permanent dyes sold in the natural products shops contain heavy chemicals, hormone disrupters and ingredients linked to cancer and allergies such as PPD, Resorcinol, Perfume or Aminophenol and are distinguished, only by their higher price compared to the conventional products. THERE ARE NO PLANT PIGMENTS IN THE PERMANENT DYES ! ALL PIGMENTS ARE SYNTHETIC !
- Plant extracts are not dyes (the coloring is made by chemical oxidation pigments) and their emphasis falsely suggest to consumers a natural dye product. Avocado, bamboo, honey or beautiful teeth on the box, do not change the product composition, it is marketing!
- The colors called “natural” or “ammonia-free” may contain PPD, » Ammonia Free » only means that your hair will be less damaged, but the chemical dyes are the same.
- The words » without resorcinol » or » paraben free » (the conditioner that comes in the box contains a lot as well as perfume) make no safety warranty if the product contains toxic oxidation dyes.
- The term “hypoallergenic” on their packaging boxes does not give you any guarantee. Here’s what we found on the Health Canada website on this subject:
- “Hypoallergenic is neither a legal nor a scientific term. It simply means that the manufacturer has chosen ingredients to produce a finished product with minimum potential for causing allergy. This does not guarantee that the product will not cause an allergic reaction for some individuals, since people are allergic to a wide range of substances. There are no non-allergenic cosmetics. ”
- If the product exhibits a “warning” on the instruction sheet and a test before use, there are, among its ingredients, substances hazardous to health.
- In 2012 there is still no improvement in the industry, nor on the choices that the health stores offer us , only the green washing proliferates shamelessly.
PERMANENT HAIR DYES WITHOUT PPD
(INCI): aqua 0 , cetearyl alcohol 1 , ethanolamine 4-6 , polysorbate-80 3-6 , toluene-2.5 diamine sulfate 5 , ceteareth-30 4-7 , sodium lauryl sulfate 1-2 , isopropyl stearate 0 , propylene glycol 3, tetrasodium EDTA 2 , parfum 8 , ascorbic acid 0 , sodium hydrosulfite 0 , panicum miliaceum extract 0 , biotin 0 , calcium pantothenate 0 , olea europaea leaf extract 0 , vitis vinifera leaf extract 0 , betula alba bark extract 0 , urtica dioica leaf/stem juice 0 , limonene 6 , linalool 4 , m-aminophenol  , 4-chlororesorcinol 5 , 2-amino-4-hydrohyethylaminoanisole sulfate 1
With Sanotint Light we avoid PPD 10 and this product may be the way to salvation for those allergic to this ingredient.
Alas, toluene diamine sulfate-2.5 5 is allergenic and the dye also contains ceteareth-30 4-7 and Perfume 8 .
Limonene, linalool and benzyl salicylate fragrances are primarily associated with allergies.
In my opinion, this is the most honest product on the market, no pretentions of “eco-naturo buy me I’m not dangerous,” and has the advantage of being a cream. I tried the number 87, the Light Golden Blonde and I was very satisfied with the result but, like all other products that are on this website and that I’ve tried, this remains a very personal experience.
2. Aubrey Organics Colour Me Natural permanent hair colour contains no PPD, no colors derived from coal tar, and no synthetic fragrances. But to cover the gray hair (over 20%) the company recommends calling the customer service for special instructions … to read between the lines.
Aubrey Organic Dark Brown INCI: Indigofera tinctoria, Lawsonia inermis alba , Emblica officinalis, Eclipta alba, Acacia cathechu.
Judging from the ingredients that dye would fall in the category of vegetal colors such as Logona ( Lawsonia inermis alba is the botanical name of henna), I think that “permanent color” is a bit strong as an attribute.
3. In Palette by Nature there is no black color, the darkest color is 4N Dark Brown Natural whose ingredients list is actually very clean and according to their website , « provides completely natural looking results with neutrally cool tones. Suitable for dark brown/black hair for tone on tone or gray coverage. This shade is compatible with conventional permanent hair dyes on the market and can be used after bleach and on foils ».
However, if it is a tone on tone coloration there is agreement that this is not a permanent color but a semi permanent one. (See Newsletter for explanations.)
Finally, available at Jean Coutu pharmacy, the SOL.FINE colorline NATURAL COLOR permanent coloring cream contains parabens, resorcinol, toluene, perfume and just about anything you do not want to put on our hair but without PPD. I do not really recommend it but for people allergic to PPD this could be a solution …
$ 8.49 + peroxide, ask for advice before buying.
SEMIPERMANET AND PLANT BASED DYES
All semipermanent and vegetal dyes colors such as those below (henna , Logona Soin Colorant , Tints of Nature semipermanent , Sanotint Reflexe , Herbatint Vegetal Color) fade after 6 to 12 shampoos, (according to the manufacturers, the reality is quite different) do not fully cover gray hair (see bellow) and do not allow radical change color but are better choice from a safety point of view.
There are also other plant based colors claiming to cover gray hair by giving hints, apparently certified BDIH but I have not checked on them because they are sold in France and not in Canada.
Those who want to pursue research, go ahead!
www.terredecouleur.fr or www.marcapar.com
Another question that frequently comes from France is about the coloring powder K FOR KARITÉ.
These new natural colorations without henna powder are ECOCERT certified, so the composition is safe. However you can read “covers naturally the gray hair”, that means the same thing as for the other vegetable and semi-permanent dyes, they do not completely cover gray hair, do not allow radical change of color and are more interesting to use when you have light hair. You can see all the ingredients for the chart on the website of the company.
I have not seen them for sale in Quebec.
Ingredients : Aqua, Glycerin 0, Alcohol dénat. 4, Benzyl alcohol 5, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice (Jus d’Aloe vera/ Aloe vera juice) 1, Salvia officinalis (Hydrolat de Sauge/Sage) water 0, Citric acid 2, Basic yellow 57 (CI 12719) 3, Basic brown 17 (CI 12251) 1, Basic Blue 99 (CI 56059) 3, Basic Red 76 (CI 12245) 1, Hydroxyethylcellulose 0, Butyrospermum parkii (Oléine de Karité/Shea butter) oil 0, Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0, Sunflower seed oleic polyglyceryl-6-esters 0, Aminomethyl Propanol 3, Parfum (Fragrance) 8
The product is certified ECOCERT, so all the ingredients are accepted by the organic certification and frankly, it’s not bad at all in terms of safety if the product is also effective. The question is: how is it possible that the generic “Perfume” is present in the formula while this is a certified organic product? Normally components of Perfume should be listed in full transparency so that consumers can make the difference with the conventional products … This “fashion” is present mainly in Europe. I’ve never seen ECOCERT certified with “Perfume” in the INCI list for products manufactured in North America products.
COLOUR WELL the 100% natural hair colour (no PPD, no ammonia, 100% chemical free)
The company does not provide the specific list of ingrédinets by product, this lack of transparency always plunges us into doubt …
The INCI lists of colors analyzed below were provided to me by an Internet user.
“We’re talking here about hair color, not hair dye.” Here’s what you can read on the first page of the Colour Well Website. This means the same as for the product listed above, and the same thing that for all the other vegetable dyes: this product does not completely cover gray hair, does not allow the radical color change and it is more interesting to use when you have light hair. Yes, they are 100% natural ingredients but with the limits that we know.
Colour Well Châtain Foncé : Indigofera tinctoria (Indigo) 1, Lawsonia inermis (Henna) 1-4 1, Coffea arabica (Coffee) 1, Acacia catechu (Catechu) 0, Emblica officinalis (Amla) 0, Bacopa monniera (Brahmi) 0, Eclipta Prostrata (Bhangra) 0, Accacia concinna (Shikakai) 1, Rubia tinctorum (Madder) 0
Colour Well Noir Doux : Indigofera tinctoria (Indigo) 1, Lawsonia inermis (Henna) 1-4 1, Acacia concinna (Shikakai) 0, Emblica officinalis (Amla) 0, Rubia tinctorum (Madder) 0, Accacia catechu (Catechu) 1, Coffea arabica (Coffee) 1, Eclipta Prostrata (Bhangra) 0, Bacopa monniera (Brahmi) 0
INCI : Water, Dipropylene Glycol Methyl Ether 2, Cetearyl Alcohol 1, Cetrimonium Chloride 3, Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil 0, Glycerin 0, Hydroxyethylcellulose 0, Essential Oils (Rose Flower 0, Cananga Odorata 3, Jasminum Officinale 3 and Santalum Album 2), Achillea Millefolium (Aquiléia) Extract 3, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract 1, Arnica Montana Extract 0, Bertholletia Excelsa (Castanha do Brasil) Extract 0, Chamomilla Recutita (Camomila) Extract 0, Corylus Rostrata (Avelã) Seed Extract 0, Daucus Carota Sativa (Cenoura) Root Extract 0, Euterpe Oleracea (Açaí) Fruit Extract 0, Lawsonia Inermis (Henna) Leaf Extract 1-4, Malpighia Punicifolia (Acerola) Fruit Extract 0, Malva Sylvestris (Malva) Extract 0, Paullinia Cupana (Guaranà) Fruit Extract 0, Phyllanthus Emblica (Amla) Fruit Extract 0, Ziziphus Joazeiro (Juà) Extract 0, Genipa Americana Extract 0, Aminomethyl Propanol 3, Sodium Citrate 0, Benzyl Alcohol 5, Dehydroacetic Acid 1, 6-Chloro-4-Nitro-2-Aminophenol 6, Disperse Black 9 3, HC Blue n.º 2 3
Essential Oils (Rose Flower, Cananga Odorata, Jasminum Officinale and Santalum Album) : essential oils can be allergens, but it is very personal, if you do not react, then there is no problem !
Glycerin : the formula does not specify the origin, animal, vegetable or synthetic? it makes a big difference …
Lawsonia Inermis (Henna) Leaf Extract : (henna dye) is classified from 1 to 4 by Skin Deep (depends on use), with a limited data base, but is rated 3 smilis by Rita Stiens , depends on whether it is organic or not, which is not the case in this formula…
Benzyl Alcohol : is classified 5 but it is a conservative accepted by organic certifications
6-Chloro-4-Nitro-2-Aminophenol : this is the most problematic ingredient of all the formula , ranked 6 but it is written incorrectly, so if you want to research it, you can not find it …
The correct ingredient is: 2-AMINO-6-CHLORO-4-NITROPHENOL
An Internet user worried about her health (see comment on the French page) asked me to analyze this hair dye. Here are the results:
ELCEA CREME DE LUMIERE N°1 (NOIR/BLACK), permanent hair colour.
Aqua, Cetearyl Alcohol 1, Ethanolamine 6, PEG-2 Oleamine 3, Toluene – 2.5 – Diamine Sulfate 7, Glyceryl Stearate 0, Sodium Laureth Sulfate 3, Ceteareth-33 3, Ceteareth-20 3-7*, Sodium Metabisulfite, 2.4 4, Diaminophenoxyethanol HCI 5**, m- Aminophenol 5, Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil) 1-3, Oleyl Alcohol 1, Polyquaternium-22 0, Ascorbic Acid 0, 2 – Methylresorcinol 4, Pentasodium Pentetate 0, p-Aminophenol 7, PEG-40 3, Castor Oil 2, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate (F01) 0.
Organic Colour Systems is a professional hair dye that is sold only under license.
I went to see the ingredients of Black (1Black), like all the other brands that are on this page, so there is no discrimination.
Here is what I found for the 1 Black : PEG-2 Soyamine 5, Cocamide DEA 7, Alcohol Denatured 4, Oleic Acid 1, Cocamide DEA 7 (yes, 2 times !), Hydrolysed Wheat Protein ( not listed on SD), Ascorbic Acid 0, PEG-7 Coco Glycerides 3
Anyone who has read a label dye understands that the list is incomplete, where the pigments are? so I searched for more information. In fact, what interests us is in on a “Note”, on another Website.
“Some of Organic Color Systems include mineral pigments. If mineral pigments are included in the color, only the smallest amounts (an average of 00.006) are used. Organic Color Systems employs only the purest and most natural virgin minerals available including HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4- Chlororesorcinol, 2-Amino-4-Hydroxyethylamino-Anisole, 4-Amino-Hydroxytoluene, M- Aminophenol, 2-Methly Resorcinol, Phenylenediamine, P-Aminophenol”.
As you can see from the link, Organic Color Systems uses PPD 7 ! ! !
Moreover, you can read on their website that only a few shades do not contain.
The 2-Méthylrésorcinol is rated 4 on Skin Deep, the P-aminophénol is rated 7, the M-Aminophenol 5, the 4-amino-Hydroxytoluene 5, the 2-amino-4-hydroxyéthylamino-anisole 3, 4 – chlororésorcinol is 6, the HC Red 3 is 7 and the HC Yellow 2 is rated 5.
One wonders then what the “ORGANIC” has to do with this hair dye? Does the presence of some certified ingredients like chamomile, some orange and grapefruit extracts give the right to these products to use the ORGANIC name !?!
There is a list for some shades of blonde without PPD made by Organic Colour Systems and also a new range of dyes that do not contain PPD, but you would not be surprised, ladies, to know that it is a semi-permanent dye ! It’s called “No limits“.
In conclusion: if you have light brown or blonde hair you do not know your happiness, because vegetal dyes or semi-permanent options are excellent.
If you have dark or black hair and if the gray seriously starts to settle in, I sympathize with you…the more one chooses dark colours the more the risk increases to find these harmful substances for health. It is besides for that reason that one recommends not to wash the hair before dyeing it, because the sebum protects the scalp from these harmful substances. The discoloration (bleaching) of the hair is also less dangerous, because it is practiced with hydrogen peroxide and it does not use toxic dyes.
I am very sorry about this discrimination coming from nature but also from science of which I am a victim myself also… Since the beginning of my research about hair colourings until today, I have more and more gray hair and I quietly join the ranks of the auburns, and even the blond, with hightlights due to the chromatic confusion which results from it, thus contributing to the ambiguity of the membership of the classes. As Verlaine would say: “… brown, blond or red head? I am unaware…” Very happy to have lived that period when “the unpleasant regrowth” was not a serious infringement to the aesthetic standards that defined “a woman of taste”.
Here is my journey, knowing it could perhaps save you a lot of time and money…
After having tested three dyeings known as “natural” which they are not, I chose Herbatint and once or twice per year a colouring without peroxide at the hairdresser. It was a good decision even if I had to redo my dyeing every other week (but I was told that other women could go as far as one month). After one year of being faithful to this option my hair really wasn’t in good shape anymore. I was loosing them and the spectrum of my bald skull during the chemo haunted me.
I thus turned to henna. Once again I did a lot of research and read thousands of pages on the Internet and I revisited the boutiques in Montreal, this time around with more multicultural alternatives: Iranian henna, Moroccan henna (with or without coffee in the composition), finally I exasperated everyone at home with my ‘tartinage’ sessions with henna, in the bathtub to keep the floor clean, using a large plastic bag for protection of my clothing. After a few months, there were less and less voluntary persons available for the application (it should be known that one really cannot do it alone) and I then invented the last alternative: application at the hairdresser’s and then return home with the hair englobed in saran (cellophane) and a large hat on the head, followed by 6 to 8 hours of waiting. At the end of my henna period, I found the Henna of Lush which has the merit of having a texture that approaches more conventional dyeing and a shorter waiting period. It is mixed with several oils which makes it very consistent during application. I waited six hours with what they call the “black excrement” on my head and the result was remarkable. A pretty black colour, quite natural, not too dark and uniform enough. IT COVERS THE WHITE!!! I shouted Victory! Big advantage: it is sold in bar with six squares (23.65 $); for short hair two squares are largely sufficient, it is therefore a quite economical choice. After a few months, I disillusioned again: while washing, the henna which covered the gray hair washed much more quickly and then the gray became yellowish, not very sexy… I then invented the “Small trick for gray hair”: to do, from time to time, (two or three days before using the black henna) a colouring with the pure henna, (red-orange) so that one can have, after a few weeks and several washings, pretty reflections of mahogany rather than yellowish on the gray hair.
Finally, you have come to understand that all these tests take much time and require patience… Henna is certainly the only non-toxic solution for darker hair with the proviso of finding organically certified alternatives, because in the past there has been evidence of contamination especially to black henna (which is not really completely henna, because pure henna is of orange colour and to obtain the black colour one adds various plants like indigo, for example), to the paraphenylenediamine (PPD) whose dangers have been exposed above.
Two years later and with more and more gray hair, I gave up henna.
Oh! I forgot to mention that I obviously tested Logona, the only vegetable colouring with a clean card which uses organic BDIH certified henna and which you will now find in all the boutiques of natural products.
For my part, I bought Logona in Europe, because at the time I could not find it in Montreal. It had been answered to me that this brand had been withdrawn from sale, because it did not cover gray hair. Indeed, it does not cover gray hair. I had it tested (Ebene) by a girlfriend who was sympathetic to the cause of the greying brunettes and no, that was not a success either. It is not entirely a dyeing, judging from the results, it is rather a colouring shampoo which can be much more appropriate for blond hair, auburn or in any case rather clear hair. Plant colouring can give very pretty nuances and reflections, but it cannot cover the white or change the colour radically.
Here is what the manufacturer himself says about gray and dark hair  .
LOGONA dye care and white hair.
“In theory, all the nuances except EBENE can be appropriate for white hair. (Caution: EBENE is not appropriate at all for white or fair-clear hair, because it contains chlorophyl which can leave “green-bottle” reflections on the clear or white hair). It should be known, that even after colouring, white hair remains clearer than the colour of origin. Therefore, the more white hair there is, the more the result obtained is clear. ”
I have literally gone all around the world and spent days and nights doing research to find a “clean” and effective product but, as the conclusion of the comparative article of six colourings says it so well, the miracle product does not exist! Neither the natural permanent hair dye!
If the fashion of perms is in decrease, dyeing hair and dissimulating the gray has become, on the other hand, a real industry (hair care accounts for 20% of the total sales of the industry of beauty products). From one country to another, the numbers vary: 50 to 60% of women of more than 25 year old affirm to use hair colourings and, according to Rita Stiens, one woman out of three dyes her hair in Europe and in North America. If this banal act of dyeing one’s hair partly reflects the ageing of the population (in North America at least), it is certainly also a flattering sign of our pretty ego (which, besides, my yogi Dr. Bali considers to be the source of all our sufferings down here on Earth) which, for certain women and certain men, can even take outright existential proportions. I could not, in this chapter, omit to greet and express my respect to the women who choose to remain very natural and to assume their gray hair gracefully, “these witnesses of the past”.
For several natural options for the health of your hair (Ghassoul, oils, butters) see the chapter “ Non-toxic Shampoos ”.
The hairdressing salons specialized in the hairstyle of women of Afro-American origin affirm that 85% of their customers come for an uncurling of the hair. These products are dangerous for health and may contain formaldehyde (see “ Dirty List ”). On this link from Health Canada , you can find the list of the most dangerous brands as well as an article on the Brazilian Blowout solution manufactured by Brazilian Blowout from California.
On the website of Dr. Oz, you can read remarks on this subject too.
I could find no less harmful version for uncurlings or perms, neither on Skin Deep, nor on Good Guide. I thus deduce from it that there are quite simply none available.
According to The Guide To Less Toxic Products, to obtain information on healthier choices for Afro-American hair, one should consult the site www.treasuredlocks.com/blhacafa , but I rather refer you to the article Best options for straight hair on Skin Deep.
Guide of products of hygiene, beauty care and non-toxic cosmetics
 ↑ Source : la maison bio http://www.lamaisonbio.com/les-colorations-capillaires-chimiques-quest-ce-quon-risque
 ↑ Source : paperblog http://www.paperblog.fr/1160398/passer-a-la-coloration-vegetale/
 ↑ INSERM, 1999 « Esthers de glycols, quels risques pour la santé ».
 ↑ Skin Deep
 ↑ PPD is the most dangerous ingredient in the permanent hair dye, it is linked to cancer, reproductive toxicity and permanent allergies. In general, more the color is darker, more elevated levels the tube contains but there are quite a lot in the shades of red too. Read more about it on Skin Deep .
 ↑ This common ingredient in hair color and bleaching product is a skin irritant that is toxic to the immune system and a frequent cause of hair dye allergy. In animal studies, resorcinol can disrupt thyroid hormone synthesis and can produce goitrogenic effects. The federal government regulates exposures to resorcinol in the workplace, but there are no regulations limiting amounts of resorcinol in personal care products. Skin Deep
 ↑ A cream (sold in tubes) contains much more fat which is less damaging to the hair, the dyes sold to the professional hairdressers are also creams, gel or liquid dyes contain much more water (sold in a glass or plastic jar) which is more aggressive to the hair, to better differentiate their texture we can compared with the face cream for face and body (oil in water) versus lotions or milks (water in oil)
 ↑ It may help sell products from face cream to laundry detergent, but do you know what’s in it? Fragrances are in everything from shampoo to deodorant to lotion. Federal law doesn’t require companies to list on product labels any of the chemicals in their fragrance mixture. Recent research from EWG and the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics found an average of 14 chemicals in 17 name brand fragrance products, none of them listed on the label. Fragrances can contain hormone disruptors and are among the top 5 allergens in the world.
 ↑ m-aminophenol is a synthetic dye used in hair coloring produced from coal tar